Next up is removing the shift linkage pin (AKA Bitch pin). Then i just have to remove the cabling on the top side of the engine. - Engine grounds, clutch cable, throttle body cable, engine mounts(last), my siren (not enough clearance), andd then i should be able to pull the engine and send the girl for a paint job...

It was time to return to the rebuild....
Removing the Drive axles, tie-rod, and lower control arm
TIME: 2 hours...
i needed to buy a new impact cuz my CH wasnt cutting it...
This is the mastercraft one i bought...well worth the $200...



Its also a good idea to remove the brake caliper, caliper mount, and rotor...much more room to work! zip tie the caliper to the fork if you dont wanna drain your fluid and remove anything.
There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in
2 17mm bolts holding the mount in.
the rotor should come freely after taking the 2 retaining screws out. You dont have to put these back in! the lugs will do the job in holding it together...


Then your gonna need a ball joint breaker...this is where you need to go to town....hammer the shit outta the balljoints and control arm..

The axle nut is a 32mm(largest one on the Teg) and needs to be removed in order to take the axle out.
Now remove hammer the axle in to pop it from the hub and pry it out from the transmission. This is actually harder than it sounds...and when you get to the driver side axle you need to pry it from the intermediate shaft in-between the transmission..

After your gonna have a ton of bolts/screws/parts so make sure your organized!!!
if you look closely you can tell the my brake pads are of poor ass quality because the shims broke on 2 of them...last time i buy ATE...