Today i tackled the Transmission linkage pin(bitch pin)---which should definitely be renamed..this was easier than taking my axles out.
Tools needed: Air Hammer-Chisel piece attached
Time:15 minutes top

This is based on the assumption you have air tools. if you dont, go out and spend the 300...its well worth the cash.

I took this picture from: http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bitch/bitch.html
which i found via : http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190542&highlight=bitch+pin
Take off the metal clamp surrounding the pin.

Firstly throw the transmission into either first or third gear, this will allow for more space to work with as your going to pull the linkage pin toward the rear of the car.

This guy went all out....unnecessary..Put the air hammer on the bottom of the pin and make sure the pressure regulator is set to the highest. Its definitely a good idea to wear safety glasses here because your going to unsettle a lot of debris and you dont want anything in your eyes...

Now Go! use the air hammer and launch that pin right outta there. be careful not to exceed the diameter of the pin with the chisel. You should be able to push the pin beyond half the shaft. Then all you need to do is take a regular hammer and smaller chisel and tap it nicely out.
It is essential that you dont use the air hammer to drive the pin all the way out because the transmission casing is aluminum and is easily damaged. just use it to break the pin loose and send it about 70% out. Dont loose the pin...its small..keep it with the clamp.
Now the linkage should drop freely and your good to go! For me this means i just gotta remove the engine top side cabling (grounds, throttle, cluctch, fuel, heater,etc) and the engine will be ready to pull.

Next up is removing the shift linkage pin (AKA Bitch pin). Then i just have to remove the cabling on the top side of the engine. - Engine grounds, clutch cable, throttle body cable, engine mounts(last), my siren (not enough clearance), andd then i should be able to pull the engine and send the girl for a paint job...

It was time to return to the rebuild....
Removing the Drive axles, tie-rod, and lower control arm
TIME: 2 hours...
i needed to buy a new impact cuz my CH wasnt cutting it...
This is the mastercraft one i bought...well worth the $200...



Its also a good idea to remove the brake caliper, caliper mount, and rotor...much more room to work! zip tie the caliper to the fork if you dont wanna drain your fluid and remove anything.
There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in
2 17mm bolts holding the mount in.
the rotor should come freely after taking the 2 retaining screws out. You dont have to put these back in! the lugs will do the job in holding it together...


Then your gonna need a ball joint breaker...this is where you need to go to town....hammer the shit outta the balljoints and control arm..

The axle nut is a 32mm(largest one on the Teg) and needs to be removed in order to take the axle out.
Now remove hammer the axle in to pop it from the hub and pry it out from the transmission. This is actually harder than it sounds...and when you get to the driver side axle you need to pry it from the intermediate shaft in-between the transmission..

After your gonna have a ton of bolts/screws/parts so make sure your organized!!!
if you look closely you can tell the my brake pads are of poor ass quality because the shims broke on 2 of them...last time i buy ATE...