So i thought i would start off with a very useful post that might get me into trouble but is worth sharing.
Living in Canada means you understand cold, and what going outside to start your vehicle in the morning feels like. The remedy? Remote starters...haha ok enough of the introduction from hell. you no what it is, what it does, maybe not fully what it can do but you understand the jist of it.
How to install a remote starter/security system into your own vehicle.
This is simply a basic instructional aid on how to install a one-way or two-way remote starter/security system into a vehicle.
For the demonstration we shall use my own vehicle.
Type of remote starter/security used: Nustart NUAS-8000 MSRP: $399.99-499.99
This can be purchased at many retailers, including Best Buy. This is a almost the exact same unit as a Compustar which holds a larger name. They are actually interchangable brains but you don't need to worry about that yet.
*NOTE: Many if not majority of vehicles require what is called a bypass. This is an electronic add on that bypasses (hence the name) the vehicles factory security, acts as a key, etc. It is installed in conjunction with the starter and is necessary for the remote starter to function correctly. More about bypasses later.
The vehicle i will use as an example does NOT need a bypass.
1990 Acura Integra
Many older vehicles do not have chipped keys, nor factory security. Making installation much simpler and quicker!
That being said, when you purchase your starter, be sure to ask the sales guy if your vehicle requires a bypass. they can run up to about $150 CA.
Now lets get started!
Tools Required
-----------------
Wire strippers
Wire cutters
Wire crimper
Assorted screwdrivers (a cordless drill is recommended)
Multi-meter (set to DC)
Assorted picks
Solder pen/iron
Solder
Zip ties
Electrical tape
Knife
Assorted Pliers
There are a few more minor tools that are not needed but make the job easier, such as Magnetic dish, drill bit adapters, universal drill bits, etc
Now before you begin, you need to acquire the correct vehicle wiring data. (colors of ignition wires, door lock wires, etc)
This may be done by researching on the internet (cant be sure about the accuracy however), or by visiting a retailer who installs them and ask politely to have a copy for your vehicle.
I realize this is not the best place for an entire article so next time it will be in PDF, or word document. however i already started this one so i will continue with a long blog...
1) *I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE NOR LIABLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE, DO SO AT OWN RISK. THIS IS SIMPLY A TOOL, COMMON SENSE MUST BE APPLIED. IF YOU DONT THINK YOU CAN DO IT, DONT!
There are serious risks involved with this type of work. Airbags are extremely easy to pop, DONT GO NEAR ANY WIRES COVERED IN YELLOW LOOM. its an airbag wire..There is always a risk. from the small things like blowing a fuse to the worst case senario being you fried the ECU, BCM, or blew an airbag. BE CAREFUL! This is a installation best left to professionals. but try it if you must...
Here is the diagram we will follow for locating the wires during installation.
Basic explanation of the wires:
12v: Constant 12 volts running through this wire, strip/attach LAST during installtion. do not allow it to come into contact with any other bare wire.
Starter: 12 volts is passed through this wire during crank allowing the engine to start.
Ignition: 12 volts is passed through this wire when the key is inserted and turned to the on position. required to start vehicle.
Accessory: This is a very useful wire to identify as it controls your vehicles electronics such as heating, headunit, lights, etc) 12 volts is passed through when the key is in the accessory position.
Second Ignition/Accessory/Starter: Many vehicles use multiple wires to control different things. if your vehicle requires a second ouput, you must build a relay. more on relays later.
Tachometer: this is usually found directly on a injector, or coil depending on vehicle. It is used during remote start to correctly identify the vehicles RPM and other things.
Power Lock/Unlock: self explanatory. the wires used to lock or unlock your vehicle.
Parking lights: These are the lights that turn on when your vehicle has started without the key in the ignition or the headlights turned on. Usually it is the setting in between off and full headlights. It is required to identify that the vehicle has been started.
Door Triggers: These are usually only necessary for manual transmission vehicles to identify that a door has been opened. If the door has been opened the vehicle will NO longer remote start. it prevents the vehicle from flying forward if someone has accidentally shifted gears.
The next few are not required for most common installations.
Brake Wire: This is connected to the vehicles brake wire to allow the starter to be turned off if the brake pedal is pushed down. It also allows us to program the brain. More on programming later.
The next important thing to read is the polarity of the wires. Different polarity's work in different ways and sometimes require relays, resistors, or diodes to work correctly. Make sure to check your starters wiring sheet for the polarity of the wires. Example: If the ignition wire off the starter is negative (-) and the ignition wire on your vehicle is negative (-), your OK! just connect them.
Example 2) If your parklight wire from your starter is positive (+) and your vehicle has negative (-) parklights, you must construct a relay to connect the negative parklights. More on relays to follow.
Now that you have a basic understanding of the wires, where they may be found, polarity, relays, you are ready to begin on the vehicle.
Firstly enter the vehicle and take apart the dash, steering column, kick panel, or wherever the tech data says your wires are located.
When you begin to identify wires, strip them lightly and test them using your multimeter. To use your multimeter, firstly identify a good ground in your vehicle and attach the negative post to it. after setting the meter to DCV, attach the positive to the wires you are testing and check their voltage. Guide below.
12V: Always has 12 volts. strip and test this last.
Ignition: will have 12v when the key is in the igniton and turned to on.
Starter: if positive (+), will only have 12 volts during crank, then will return to 0. If negative (-), the opposite will occur.
Accessory: 12 volts when the key is in the "acc" position.
At this point you should have taken your dash apart, and identified and tested the wires in your vehicle. If you have done this portion correctly, you have achieved a great deal! good job.
The next part is the most crucial with any installation. the Preperation.
This is where you will take your brain, attach the neccesary wires, tape and concel them, and decide where they need to be ran and attached. this is also the time to extend wires that may be too small. Its much easier to extend them on the bench then under the car. I will post various pictures of a good preparation and one that will waste your time and require extra wiring, etc. Ill put up pictures of tips and tricks to use when doing a prep and what the final product should look like. right now ill move on because i dont have any pictures.
Lets say your prep is done, although its really not because i havnt explained how to do it properly yet. but lets just pretend.
Now you would take your finished brain and find a good spot for mounting it in the vehicle. this should be done prior to your prep actually but w.e. The ideal spot is one that cannot be seen easily nor tampered with without serious effort. Hide it and keep it out of the way from your vehicles major components (steering column shaft, brake/gas/clutch pedals). After mounting your brain, begin attaching the wires from the starter to the car. I usually start with the ignitions, then move on to any in the kick panels, and finally end with the bypass and 12 volts.
stripe and solder your wires carefully, ensuring proper connectivity and not a cold solder. tape them up and clean it up by a) using wire loom to hide any wires or b) using electrical tape to black them out. either is acceptable.
Now you have successfully done the main wiring and can finish the install by running the antenna (follow manufactures guide for positioning), and programming your remotes. for this specific model, your programming works as follows:
1) Insert the key into the ignition
2) Turn to the on/off position 5 times very quickly (within 5 seconds)
3) Quickly press the lock button on each remote.
correct programming is indicated by a beep from the brain after each remote is programmed and by 2 beeps after confirming that the programming is complete.
Now clean up and reinstall the dash, trim, panels, etc and you have just installed a remote starter ALL BY YOURSELF! WOOPIE!
*This will be edited for content and pictures soon but right now im to tired. sorry for any typos!
Khurrum Khan
Should have enough room where the battery and intake was to stick your hands in and remove the backside cabling, this includes mostly heater hoses, pressure lines (fuel), ground on the transmission, starter cable, and the alternator cable(probably go from the right side).
